Sunday, February 28, 2010

Ghana Tunz

Music and dance are dominant parts of Ghanaian culture. Any time people are gathered there is music playing. The music could be traditional drums, Gospel and Christian Choral, Reggae, Highlife, or Afro-Pop.
Just like in the US, it’s the Pop music (aka Hip-Life) that students tend to listen to and that you hear at “spots” (Ghanaian clubs).
If I had to make a soundtrack of my time in Ghana, based on the songs I hear most often, these five songs would make the list:
(after listening to each song, give your feedback in the poll on the left of this page)

“Yori Yori” by Bracket (Nigerian)


“Kiss Your Hand” by R2Bees (Ghanaian – From Tema, in fact)


“Swagger” by Ruff-n-Smooth (Ghanaian)



“Babe (Baby)” by Sarkodie (Ghanaian)



“Simple” by Bradez (Nigerian)

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Funeral Day (preview)

Last weekend I attended Funeral Day with a colleague, Gyimah, at his hometown of Twenedurase. I’m still in the process of editing all the video and pictures – I took 7 GB worth – and once I do, I’ll post many of them to my shutterfly site and tell stories of my time right here on the blog.

In the meantime, here are some images of the experience:

 

Ghana 130The street (yes, there’s only one) of Twenedurase lined with funeral-goers.

 

 

Ghana 189Palm fruit and palm oil is grown and sold across this region

 

 

Ghana 086This structure was built in 1931. The tropical climate causes exposed stone and wood to age very quickly.

 

 

Ghana 102The town’s chief (third from the right, in the front row, sitting under the umbrella) presides over the funeral activities and is greeted by each of the visitors.

 

 

Ghana 110 A picture of one of the deceased sits before a box accepting donations to the family

 

Ghana 113

The man holding the golden-topped staff is the chief’s linguist. In formal interactions, the chief does not speak directly to a tribal member, nor does the tribesman speak directly to the chief. They speak through the linguist. The gold statue atop the staff shows two people sharing a bowl of food, symbolic of friendship.

 

 

 Ghana 118  Members of Gyimah’s family.

 

Ghana 152

  We stopped in a nearby town to visit a shrine to a cherished missionary. While waiting for the chief to greet us we made friends with this woman (who was washing dishes) and her nieces (the one in the foreground was playing with what looked like a leather or string thong tied to a small rock at the end. Once or twice, she struck her sister who was working hard washing clothes. Her sister cried out in pain, but never yelled or struck back).

Ghana 186 Washing in the customary fashion after my meal of yams and fish stew.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Funeral Day

Saturday I will be hitting the road with Chris Gyimah, a math teacher. We are headed to his village located in the Eastern Region of Ghana. It’s also in Ghana’s “high country” so Gyimah promises me it’s going to be cooler there.

Why are we going? It’s funeral day in his village. Apparently it’s common in rural places to have designated funeral days every so many weeks. He says “when there are enough dead bodies” they have a funeral day. This saves people the hassle of having to travel to the village too frequently to attend funerals. He says with a chuckle, they just “keep them on ice for some time.”

I’ll take plenty of pictures and video and share them when I return on Sunday.

The Stimulus Worked

In non-partisan economic circles there’s very little debate that the federal stimulus passed last year had a positive effect on the economy.

Where Obama and Co. got themselves into hot water was their underestimation, at the time the stimulus bill was being promoted, of the recession’s severity. Had the administration correctly forecasted potential unemployment the public would have a greater appreciation for how well the stimulus worked.

If you prefer to listen to someone explain why the stimulus worked, here’s economist Mark Zandi from Moody’s Economy.com

By the way, I have not encountered any Ghanaians who are aware of the US recession. And quite frankly, while I know it has devastated millions of American families, I have a difficult time remembering that when I’m faced each day with the struggles of the average Ghanaian: Selling Hard Boiled Eggs near AccraLike students who do not return to school for the term because their family can not afford the boarding and tuition fees (less than $200); Women who sleep in the open air on benches along the market streets so they can be next to their “store” (essentially a 4-foot tall wooden box, sometimes with an umbrella above it) incase someone wishes to make a purchase; Young men who are on the streets at dawn pulling large carts of coconuts to the spot along the road where they will sell them all day long, hacking the top open with a machete and handing them to passing motorists for 30 cents each; And children of all ages darting between cars at busy intersections and highway on and off-ramps selling gum, water, and candy from platters or bowls placed confidently atop their head, each sale clearing a profit of perhaps 3 to 5 cents.

Yes, the recession in the US has been severe, but life here is much, much different. 

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

So Much For That

It’s 94 degrees today.

The dew point is 78.

My shirt is stuck to my back.

Back to reality.

Monday, February 15, 2010

A Change in the Air

Before arriving in Ghana I thought I had some idea of what to expect from the weather: Heat.

Well, I was wrong. Sort of.

You know that line, “It’s not so much the heat; It’s that gosh darn humidity!”

My first days (uh…weeks, uh…months) in Ghana were about sweat. And I don’t mean the “I just finished working out so I’m all sweaty and need to take a shower” sweat. I mean the “I just took a shower and toweled off but I’m still wet” kind of sweat. The “what the heck? I’m soaking wet and all I did was eat a cookie” kind of sweat, the “I drank four liters of water today and haven’t peed once” kind of sweat, the “when I wear a colored shirt my nipples are outlined by a white circular salt stain” sorta’ sweat. Get the picture? It ain’t pretty.

Before arriving here Cori planned to keep a weather diary – you know, record the daily weather and post it on this blog, looking for trends and whatnot. It's 86.9 degrees at 5:07AM. Super!We purchased a pretty fancy wireless weather station: it has a remote hygrometer and anemometer. It’s pretty neat!

We had read and heard about this seasonal dry period known as harmattan: when the prevailing winds shift to the north east, bringing dry, dusty air from the Sahara down to the coast. It is supposed to kick in around Christmas, and when it does, the Ghanaians told us, we would suffer: cracked lips, burning eyes, brittle hair, etcetera. We would frequently ask the Ghanaians about the temperature of the harmattan. Some would tell us it would become much cooler. Others would say hotter. But they all emphasized how dry it would be. Miserably dry. So dry, they said, that you would have to put “this type of, cream, on your lips.”

“Chapstick?” I replied.

“That is it!”

From my conversations with them I have concluded that most Ghanaian’s do not understand how humid Ghana is compared to the higher latitudes. It’s jungle humid here. In Wisconsin, chapstick is nearly equivalent to car keys, wallet, and call phone in terms of things you will find in people’s pockets or purse. It’s a way of life.

They also said the harmattan would come after a big rain. So we anxiously waited.

We had a big rain the second week after we arrived. The next day, no change.

Three weeks later, lots of lightening and heavy rain. In the morning, hot and humid. Ugh.

So, Cori continued to track the weather and we noticed a pretty clear trend: it wasn’t changing. At all. At times I have seriously questioned if the weather station is working properly. We realized there would be no point to posting a weather log online because it it would look something like this:

High Temp Low Temp Dew Point
96 80 79
95 80 79
95 79 78
95 80 79
96 81 79

December passed. No harmattan.

January came and went. Ditto.

Some people told me “Harmattan. In da nort. Dey have eet in da nort.”

I secretly wished I was living in “de nort.”

Could it Be?

Saturday night it started raining around midnight. At 1AM I was awakened by the downpour on my tin roof. Shortly the power went out. At 3AM I was awakened by the power coming on (I had accidently left my bedside lamp switched on when the power was out).

Sunday morning it was pleasantly cool: about 77.

The high temperature Sunday was a chilly 83. I didn’t use the a/c once! Even opened all the doors and windows.

Around 5PM Sunday I asked one student if he thought it was cold (it was 81 at that time). He said, “yes, very cold"

When I got out of bed this morning I went to the thermometer: 75

“I’m still dreaming” I thought. “Please don’t wake up!”

Now it’s 9AM and still only 84 degrees. Normally it’s well above 90 by this time of the morning.

Could this be what I’ve been waiting for?

Sunday, February 14, 2010

War Sucks

Screenshot from www.huffingtonpost.com at 11:19 GMT on Feb 14, 2010

Two Afghan children look lost after a US-launched bomb explodes nearby US President Barack Obama appears to be enjoying his time meeting with US troops in Afghanistan, months before the Feb '10 resurgence

This is Obama’s war.

The blood is on his hands.

Devastating, Every Way You Measure It (Edited - Corrects Data Error)

BBC presents some interesting graphics today that compare aspects of this year’s earthquake in Haiti to a pair of powerful recent earthquakes in Italy (2009) and China (2008) to explain why so many more people died in this one. It’s well worth taking a moment to look over.
But of all the data presented in the story, this struck me the most:


Look again at the ratio of the cost of this earthquake (grey) to the size of Haiti’s annual economic output (red). That’s the reason Haiti needs our help.
 (This image is significantly different from the one I originally posted. The BBC obviously made an error when they first created this graph.)
Update:
According to recent updates, it is estimated that the cost of the Haiti earthquake will likely surpass the country's meager $7B annual GDP (economic output).

Tuesday, February 09, 2010

Explore the Haitian Damage

I’m an avid user of Google Earth, a program everyone should have downloaded and installed on their computer.

Now the folks at Google have made available an amazing collection of high resolution satellite image overlays of Port-au-Prince and the surrounding countryside. It’s an amazing, and horrifying, set of images. I randomly zoomed in to parts of the city and everywhere I looked there was damage, destruction, and tent cities. Here are a few random screen shots:

High altitude picture of Port-au-Prince

 

A football stadium turned into a hospital/boarding facility

 

The streets are filled with rubble, the buildings collapsed

Go here to download both Google Earth and the high resolution images

Monday, February 08, 2010

Is the “First Dude” actually “Boner?” *

I saw on-line tonight that Sarah Palin, while answering questions after her little “Tea Bag” speech, appears to have been using crib notes written on her hand. Here’s the video:

It immediately reminded me of an episode of Growing Pains in which Mike Seaver (essentially the Dennis the Menace of 80’s prime time TV) prepares to cheat on his US History test by writing answers on the bottom of his sneakers. However, he is encouraged to stay up all night cramming and ends up not needing to cheat. Alas, after handing in his test (and apparently acing it) he is beaming with pride, tips back in his seat and puts his feet up on his desk, exposing his crib notes to the teacher.

So, I searched the Internet for an image of those infamous shoes and look what I discovered:

 growing2

The first answer on his right foot is…

“ALASKA”

 

 

* “Boner” refers to Mike Seaver’s best friend on Growing Pains

Saturday, February 06, 2010

Track & Field

Ghana, Athletics 001Friday was Athletics Day at Temasco. It’s an annual track and field competition pitting the four houses against one another. The boys and girls are each divided into four groups, or houses, based on their dorm of residence. The houses are numbered (1-4) and each has a color (red, blue, yellow, green). Apparently they also have formal names but I haven’t Ghana, Athletics 112figured that one out yet (I’m like a kindergartener here – I can handle numbers 1-4 and basic colors, but give me proper names and I’m all confused). I digress.

First thing in the morning the houses came out to the athletics field to set up their house tents – their home base for the day of competition. I was assigned a role at the event: Chief Official of the Field Events (can you see me puffing out my chest). So, as the students prepared their areas, some staff worked to set up the sound system, and the day’s sponsors (Cowbell – a dairy company; and Tigo – a mobile phone company) erected their banners and various Ghana, Athletics 018advertisements (yeah, schools here are government run but to an unsuspecting American they would appear private – kids pay fees to attend and the schools seek corporate  sponsorship for many events), I moved from field event to field event making sure each of the judges had the necessary equipment. Ghana, Athletics 127I helped dig a trench to sink the long  jump takeoff board. I decided to switch the discus and shot put rings to avoid any high jumpers getting killed by an errant disc (I know, I’ve always been partial to those high jumpers). I notified each house of schedule changes to the field events. Bottom line: I was the man! :-)

Seriously, it gave me the freedom to walk around and snap a lot of pictures during the day. You can see the entire collection here.

 

Ghana, Athletics 106 Students here accomplish the most with the least:

There is one boy’s shot, and one girl’s.

There’s one discus for each gender. 

There’s one javelin.

There’s one pole vault pole. Ghana, Athletics 026

There is no box to plant the pole vault pole. Instead they used a handle-less pick axe to chop out a box-shaped hole in the ground.

Temasco actually has a high jump/pole vault pit (mat) which many Ghanaian schools do not (It’s that yellowish block-of-cheese-looking thing in the picture). However, can you see an American child jumping on that? Or, more accurately, can you see the parent of an American child allowing the child to jump on that?

Ghana, Athletics 067There is no track. There’s a field into which someone has hand scraped 9 concentric grooves demarking an 8-lane, 400m oval track. It was an amazingly symmetrical feat of human determination.  

Few students own or wear athletic shoes. some compete in socks. Most compete in bare feet.

It was 97 degrees Friday and humid as a jungle.

Ghana, Athletics 093Students started setting up at 6 am and the day ended after 6:30 pm. Ghana, Athletics 059

I did not see a single student being tended to by a paid athletic trainer, a coach (there are no coaches), or a parent. I saw no student icing his shins, or complaining about her various cramps and muscle pulls.  

I saw a few students limping after their event. And I saw a few others pick splinters or who-knows-what out of their bare feet.

Ghana, Athletics 161I also saw 3,000 smiles, 1,200 handshakes, 400 hugs, 3 traditional dances, one student drummer, and no one complaining. 

It was a good day.

Wednesday, February 03, 2010

Return to Rwanda

If you are familiar with the tragic story of the Rwandan genocide – perhaps you have watched Hotel Rwanda – then I think you’ll find this story of interest. A woman – now in her early thirties – returns to Rwanda from the Congolese refugee camp in which she has lived for the past decade and a half for the first time. She doesn’t know what she will find when she gets there: family, friends, a place to stay? It’s an outstanding bit of journalism and a gripping story.

As a side note, here in Ghana one of the local stations carries the Al Jazeera English news network for a few hours each day. I’m familiar with the network – their video can be streamed online and years ago I made it a regular stop of mine on the Internet – but watching it on television has given me a new appreciation for its level of professionalism and the depth of its coverage of global events. The other international news option for me in Ghana is CNN-World. The contrast between the two networks makes CNN appear about as legitimate as a “morning zoo” radio show. It’s unfortunate that Al Jazeera has been stigmatized in the US, because it could provide Americans with excellent (and, frankly, much needed) insight into the rest of the world.

Tuesday, February 02, 2010

New Pictures

I've uploaded a set of pictures including some from my trip to Togo, and students in the classroom and around campus

Monday, February 01, 2010

Ghana Sports Update

Updated below
Sunday afternoon the Black Stars (Ghana's national soccer, er... football team) fought brilliantly against the heavily favored Pharaohs of Egypt in the finals of the Africa Cup of Nations Tournament. Ghana came out aggressively, pressing at every chance, setting up a few good scoring opportunities but the ball just would not find the back of the net. The teams were scoreless entering the final ten minutes. Then, at the 83rd minute Egypt broke through the Ghana defense and put one past the goal keeper for the match's only score.
Tonight I watched on local television live coverage of the team's chartered flight arrive at Kotoka Airport in Accra where hundreds of cheering fans awaited. The nation is proud of its Black Stars and looks forward to this summer's World Cup in South Africa.

Now another "black star" is coming on the scene. Kwame "The Snow Leopard" Nkrumah-Acheampong will represent Ghana at the upcoming Winter Olympics in Vancouver in alpine skiing.

Yes, snow skiing.

He's from Ghana.

There are no mountains in Ghana.

There is no snow.

He learned to ski six years ago on a dry hillside.

The Snow Leopard will become the first Ghanaian to ever participate in the Winter Olympics.
Some might compare him to England's Eddie "The Eagle" Edwards, the pudgy, very near-sighted ski jumping spectacle of the '88 Calgary Olympics. But Nkrumah-Acheampong says he prefers comparison to the Jamaican bobsled team that inspired the movie "Cool Runnings." He told CNN "If you want to be a sportsman, be a sportsman. If you want to have fun then do sports for leisure. Don't take the seriousness of sport and make a mockery of it."

Personally, I'll be pulling for The Snow Leopard but I don't expect much competitive success. But I am happy that his involvement should bring some Olympic TV coverage to Ghana, a place where the Winter Olympics would otherwise hardly be an afterthought.
-------- The Snow Leopard
Update:
"The Snow Leopard" has started the first ever Ghanaian Ski Team. He hopes to raise awareness for skiing and expose children to the sport by creating a "dry hill" in Ghana where, with specialized equipment, they can learn how to ski.

Togo

The holder of a 60-day Ghanaian Visa, I had to leave the country before the end of January to avoid staying beyond my documents. It’s a multiple-entry visa, so I am allowed to come back to Ghana as often as I wish for the next 7 years. But I can not stay for more than 60 consecutive days. So, this weekend I convinced a couple of my Ghanaian teaching colleagues to join me for a one-day trek to neighboring Togo, and its capital city Lomé.